The San Francisco restaurant Pastis closes on Saturday night, with Gerald Hirigoyen and his wife, Cameron, having bought out their co-owner and planning to open Piperade, fervently Basque, on the same site.
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"Piperade is a quintessential Basque dish that combines the signature ingredients : tomatoes, onion, garlic, chilies, and controversy, " reads the headnote to a recipe in Gerald Hirigoyen's book, " The Basque Kitchen " ( HarperCollins, $ 35 ).
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HELPING OUT : San Francisco restaurateur Gerald Hirigoyen has just opened Piperade, so a bunch of the guys _ Hubert Keller of Fleur de Lys, Laurent Manrique of Campton Place, Jean Alberti of Kokkari, Roland Passot of La Folie, Joel Le Guillon of the Argent Hotel, Sylvan Portay and Jean-Pierre Dubray of the Dining Room at the Ritz-Carlton in San Francisco, and Xavier Salomon of Navio in the Ritz-Carlton, Half Moon Bay _ had dinner there one night last week to support him.