Also two cow moose with lugubrious snouts and no antlers; 14 willow ptarmigan adults, their plumage just starting to turn white, with more scurring chicks than could be counted; one each of Steller jays and black-billed magpies; two Arctic ground squirrels, and one hoary marmot, clinging precariously to a gnarled branch overhanging a sheer drop of hundreds of feet.